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The First 87 Days in Lebanon

So, it’s almost been three month in Beirut. How time goes by in a flash! I won’t forget it… so, to recap, here are some things I’ve learned about myself in the past 87 days:

  • One does not need hot water to survive, leading also to the conclusion that,
  • One does not heed hot showers to survive.
  • It is impossible to weigh friends against anything else – Good friends and people you can trust is incredibly valuable.
  • Buying a cup of coffee using three different languages is a strange but hilarious thing:

Me: “Bonjour”

Waitor: “Bonjour, monsieur.”

Me: “Wahid nescafe, min fadklak.” (One NesCafe – which is instant coffee – please)

Waitor: “Wahid nescafe, tayb. Something sweet?” (One NasCafe, ok…)

Me: “La, Shukran” (No, thank you.)

Not exactly an advanced application of French or Arabic, but still – Three languages.

  • The Lebanese make especially good hamburgers.
  • A bottle of Almaza (Lebanese beer) is surprisingly cheap (22 oz for $3.75 US).  10 bottles of Almaza is surprisingly expensive and should be avoided.
  • Watching an African American get elected President of the United States, while in Lebanon, and then inaugurated two and a half months later, is extraordinary.
  • Israel has a special place in its heart for the destruction of a people.
  • Even though I know that the Lebanese lack any serious capacity to tap my phone, I’m quite confident I’m being listened to by every other major intelligence organization in the world.
  • Being blond and white and American in Bierut is grounds for immediate suspicion.
  • Newspapers that don’t pay their bills get shut down, even when they employ a mountain of interns who don’t get paid (i.e. myself)
  • Not having a computer because it breaks or is seized by the Lebanese court when the newspaper gets shut down because you used it in your office is a drag.
  • Paying $.50 a minute for cellphone service is outrageous, and I’m fairly confident that SMS’s are giving my carpal tunnel syndrome.
  • Captains Cabin will not close until 4am or later if you keep buying drinks.
  • I’m no good at pool and the pool table at Captains doesn’t help the situation.
  • Clubs that stay open all night and have retractable roofs are cool, even though they’re still pretty uncool since they’re clubs.
  • This certainly is an incredible country, and I have so many wonderful people here to thank for helping me get through these past three months.

I’m off to Amman, Jordan, for a few days. When I return, there will be many changes, including my move across town to a real apartment with real hot water. Lots of other things will change as well. But I’ll never forget these past three months, and all the things I learned, and all the things I still have to learn.

written by [ Will Donovan ]
The Dao that can be experienced is not true;
The world that can be constructed is not true.
The Dao manifests all that happens and may happen;
The world represents all that exists and may exist.

-Dao De Jing

2 Responses to “ The First 87 Days in Lebanon ”

  1. haha, i love it!

    You forgot to add that saying you won’t play pool for a week because you’ve sucked the last 10 games never works either…
    Oh, and that no matter how many origami cranes are made, Andre will still manage to fit them on one shelf..

  2. consider it added ;)

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